Kimmeridge Bay and Houns Tout from Swyre Head
The bench at Heaven’s Gate, overlooking Kimmeridge Bay, on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast, is my favourite spot for thinking and reflection. Other than the bench in my garden that is, from where I am writing. We call this the ‘Gink’ bench, named during Lockdown 2020, having enjoyed many gin and tonics (Ginks) after a hard day glued to my laptop, Working from Home (or living at work). Unlike my garden idyll, which has modest views over the veg plot to the hills beyond, Heaven’s Gate has spectacular views, to Kimmeridge, Clavell’s Tower and the Isle of Portland in the distance, which are hard to rival in all the Isle of Purbeck.
Although this is a longer walk than many on Isle Walk Purbeck, at almost 9 miles, and is, needless to say, quite challenging, it is worth a day’s walking to admire the expansive views and, if open, the delights offered by Clavell’s café and restaurant, the Etches fossil collection and the Wild Seas marine life centre down at the bay.
Park at the little car park near Swyre Head and start the walk by climbing uphill to the viewpoint, overlooking Encombe Estate and the vast expanse of coast and sea beyond, towards Chapman’s Pool and St Aldhelm’s chapel. Having admired the views turn right through a gate and head along the top of the ridge, with the sea on your left. Continue along this permissive path, going straight on through gates ahead of you, pausing at the aforementioned Heaven’s Gate, noting that the gate itself has its name inscribed into the wood.
Continue along the ridgeway track until the steep descent to the road, where you turn left and then almost immediately right over a stile and into a field.
Follow the path down to the church and alongside the graveyard, emerging onto the road with Clavell’s restaurant on your left and the relatively new Etches Collection on your right.
Dr Steve Etches houses his collection of local fossils of Jurassic Coast marine life here, having upgraded from storing them in his garage in the village. It’s well worth a visit to understand the reason why this special section of English coast is designated as a World Heritage site.
Clavell’s restaurant is the perfect place to stop, whether it be for breakfast, brunch or lunch, before continuing towards the bay and onto Clavell’s tower.
From Clavell’s, having passed a telephone box on your right, look out for a footpath sign attached to the wall of a cottage, and take the path between the houses and gardens to a stile into the field beyond. Turn left and follow the stream through the woodland until you emerge into an open field. Follow the path, which tracks along the hedge on the left of the field, until you reach the road close to Kimmeridge Bay. If you prefer to walk along the road to admire the beautiful, thatched cottages in the village, rather than take the path behind their rear gardens, then you can do so, picking the path up a bit further along the road as you head down to the sea.
Turn left along the road until you reach the car park at Kimmeridge Bay. You may want to take another detour to explore the bay and the fascinating sea ledges, especially when the tide is out. Be careful though as it can be dangerously slippery! On a blustery day you can enjoy watching the surfers and in calmer times it is great to enjoy a paddle or swim. That might be best to save for another day as there is the rest of the walk to complete and the next stretch promises spectacular views as you make your way towards Clavell’s Tower.
Follow the path along the coast with the tower in front of you, walking past the big White House on your left (built before more stringent planning permission laws were brought in) and continue through, passing the public toilets (where you may also wish to pause!)
Take a left turn onto the road that heads down to the slipway, and take the steep steps on the left, opposite the Wild Seas Centre, making your way up to the tower. The steep steps provide a good excuse to pause and admire the view and watch the antics below: dogs swimming, surfers, kites, birds, picnics and fishing boats, to name a few. Once you have caught your breath continue to the top to admire the newly renovated Clavell’s Tower.
The tower is a folly, originally built in the 1830s by Reverend John Richards Clavell of Smedmore House. Now owned by the Landmark Trust Clavell’s Tower was moved away from its original location in 2008, to save it from coastal erosion and falling into the sea. You can now see the original footings and, whilst marvelling at how on earth they moved it with painstaking precision, understand why it was necessary to do so. Clavell’s Tower is a folly no more, as it is now possible to rent the tower as a holiday home, without the threat of finding yourself falling into the sea in the middle of the night – unless you are prone to sleep walking (there is no fence at the cliff-edge!)
Leaving Kimmeridge behind, walk in an easterly direction with the sea on your left along the South West Coast path. The directions from here need little explanation as you will continue on the coast path until you reach the highest point at the headland of Houns Tout, on the westerly side of Chapman’s Pool. Take care on this path as due to erosion it has become closer to the cliff edge, and some sections have been moved further inland. The path itself can be muddy in wet weather, but it is worth it for the amazing views along the coast towards Swanage. We have debated which way is best to walk this route as the views behind you are just as impressive as what lies ahead, so as with most circular routes it might be worth doing it both ways, on different days of course!
You will know when you have reached Houns Tout as it is a very steep climb up to a stone seat at the top. If nobody has beaten you to it, this is the perfect place for your well deserved picnic or afternoon cuppa as you catch your breath and enjoy the views over to the isle of Portland and back along the coast beyond Kimmeridge. The final leg of the walk is to climb the stile behind the seat and head back inland along the ridge to the Encombe car park. You catch glimpses of Encombe House and estate on your left, followed by the pleasant contrast of walking through the woodland before emerging on the road, that took you to the Swyre Head car park. The last time we did this walk, in March, we picked wild garlic and Nick made his own butter with the leaves and young nettles from the garden at home. You can read about how to churn your own butter in his Rambling – Butter Me Up!
Once at the road turn left and walk back to the car park. Just one last delight is the view on the right over to Corfe Castle in the distance – this really is the walk that keeps on giving!
8.8 miles
4 hours
1356 ft
Fields, Paths and road
Yes - woof!
OS Grid Ref: SY 943 792
Latitude: 50° 36' 46" N
Longitude: 2° 4' 54" W
Elevation: 470ft
